I am currently running core i5 2500k @ 4.5GHz at 1.34v and while running intel burn test I reach up to 80C and the idle is around 45-50. My ambient temp is around 23c-25c
As for the H60 it is running how it should at full pump speed so i duno if its just me or the temps are little too high. I tested with a cheap 15 pound heat sink and fan I was getting the same temp so what real advantage is this achieving
I have a AMD phenom II x6 1090t, with a Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2 cooler and the thermal compound is applied properly. I also have 5 chassis fans.
On idle I normally have temps of 30-38 and when I'm gaming (GTA IV, LFD, COD MW2, BLACK OPS etc) I only hit 50, but when I was playing GTA IV, I finished playing and checked my temps and core temp said I hit 112 Celsius, however I didn't hear the computer get noisy or anything. I was wondering if this is legit or just a false temp because I've heard a few bad things about core temp.
When I use prime95 and other tools I only hit like 50 D:
My CPU idle temps increased A LOT after windows updates (Ultimate 64). And not just after rebooting, but all day long. Just in idle. When I start any work on the laptop, it drops to normal levels. Scary, cause I make pauses often and let it shutdown the screen and sleep. What a surprised when I return to work and check it reached 70C when it was supposed to be cooler than before, obviously. Once I touch the mouse and resume working, it drops fastly and everything seems to be normal. WTF? And its happening only after updates, and only on Ultimate, because when I had Home Premium it never occured.
View 2 Replies View RelatedThe Max is what it was hitting when i was running the stress test and it idles around mid 40's... and i mean as soon as i started the stress text the cores instantly jumped to 90's, 2 weeks ago i replaces the thermal paste on my heatsink and it went down from mid 50's to high 30's and when gaming i get 70 - mid 80's intel-860 here!
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have an older Gateway 7811fx with an Nvidia 9800M GTS. Usually about 5-20 minutes into a game, it will hard lock, the screen turns black, and it has to be shut down manually. It is NOT temperatures as far as I can see. I'm running monitoring software, and the GPU is only getting up to 70 or so, the processor is also running cool. That being said, it used to overheat all the time before I got wise and fixed it, and I'm afraid the video card is just damaged after being run hard for 5 years. I just reinstalled Windows 7 and freshly updated my video drivers and the problem persists.
Is there anything else I can check to try to figure out what's going on? Everything seems to be perfectly fine until it hard locks; nothing is overheating.
Alight, so my ASUS G60JX has an overheating problem. A bad overheating problem. I created another thread a while back, but do to me getting busy( and ultimately forgetting about it) I marked it as solved.
Recently, I purchased Need For Speed: The Run (Limited Edition). It uses Frostbite 2, which is the same graphics engine as FIFA 2012, Battlefield 3, and some others . The requirements said that the game should work on my computer. It called for a 3.0GHz Core 2 Duo and a NVIDIA 8800 GT (a 512MB card). My specs being an i5 430M clocking at 2.66 GHz (dual core, quad threading), and a NVIDIA GTS 360M (a 1GB card), it SHOULD work.
However, after playing for about 2 minutes, the frame rate dropped to about 3FPS. I flipped over to HWmoniter, to find that my GPU was stressing out at about 125C, and my CPU at about 100C. My RAM wasn't maxing out, the CPU was at 70%, and the GPU was also at about 70%. So basically, I pretty ticked off that I spend $40 on a game that should have worked, only to find that it's destroying my GPU.
I tried cleaning out my heatsinks/fan, using a laptop pad, using a laptop cooling pad, and using a huge 25" vornado industrial fan. Placing the laptop directly on top of the vornado was the only thing that worked. The Vornado tactic kept everything running at full FPS, while pumping 1366x768 through a 36", and the temps never went beyond 64C. Obviously, it is not optimal to have my laptop in the middle of the room listening to that huge fan scream. It's loud. Like really loud.
I have come to the final conclusion that I'm 100% fed up with this. I have an idea of putting a small desktop GPU fan inside my case to replace the stock fan, along with some more heatsinks. Here is the fan I was thinking of using: Newegg.com - EVERCOOL VC-RF Ever Lubricate VGA Cooler
I recently got a new 120gb SSD to replace my HDD. I have an i7 Lenovo y570, 8gb ram, with switchable graphics using a Nvidia GeForce 555m. Before upgrading, while playing Guild Wars 2 my performance was flawless on ultra graphics running at about 80 C and stable 50 FPS. Now I'm experiencing spiking FPS running at about mid 90's C after 5 mins on the lowest graphics settings! I updated all drivers and installed it correctly to the best of my knowledge.
View 9 Replies View RelatedAnd to top it off and make it even more impossible I'd like to do it wirelessly.My desktop's hooked up to a TV and I sit about 8ft away from it. I'd like to keep the laptop next to me an monitor the temps while playing games.The only way I can imagine successfully doing this is using remote desktop while using the laptop as a second monitor.I'm using Windows 7 x64.It doesn't seem entirely impossible because I used to do it with my iPad but I sold it.
View 16 Replies View Relatedhaving boot mgr errors 4-6 times a day computer reboots out of the blue have to go into bios re-identify the bootable os drive. have a corsair force 3 120gb SSD. have daily talks with corsair tech support. AHCI is enabled in the bios & MSAHCI is changed from 1 to 0 still get BOOTMGR is missing. i have done windows startup repair no change still get bootmgr. have updated the Firmware on the Corsair SSD. have done everything i can find to do. still get BOOTMGR is missing. asus p6x58d, intel I7-970 3.2ghz windows 7 ultimate SP1.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI did about 3 format since I bought my ssd. And its getting slower and slower for everytime I format it, I have format it about 2 times not more. and its about 100-200 write speed on it, before it was about 200-300. but its not fast as I expected here comes my bios settings if i have anything wrong there [URL].
View 9 Replies View RelatedI was looking at Corsair 4GB DDR3 1600mhz Vengeance Memory Module CL9.. It looks great my mother board is a gigabyte 880gm-ud2h I'm currently only running 1333 dims and I was wondering would it be able to run a 2gb corsair value 1333mhz moduel and a vengence 1600mhz?
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow do I remove Corsair CMX1024-3200C2PT?
View 1 Replies View RelatedCan you use Win 7 upgrade on another computer on the same In Home network or do I have to buy another box?
View 2 Replies View RelatedRecently, I heard my fan going really loud while playing some games. So I used some compressed air to clean it out. Surprisingly there wasn't as much dust coming out as I expected. My computer usually runs under 50 C when just browsing the web, but now its at 58. Playing a game, it usually runs at 63ish but now it runs up to 74 C. I even have a laptop fan under my computer. I have no idea whats going on, usually after I use my compressed air, it goes back to normal, but what now?
View 9 Replies View RelatedRig crashed due to a failed PSU --> Replaced with new Corsair AX1200 and now the Win 7 Ultimate 64bit is not recognizing the 12 gb Corsair Dominators (shows only 4 gb). I've searched the forums for this issues and the common responses was - to go to BOOT Advanced Options and uncheck the maximum memory. The Dominators are fine because they are detected by CPU ID. The MOBO is only showing 4 gb as well. I tried the 12 gb memory modules in a friends computer and it works fine!
View 3 Replies View RelatedI just got a Corsair 800D case and I am looking for a nice lighting kit for it.
View 4 Replies View RelatedA client brought in a Dell laptop with a missing driver. A tech downloaded a driver onto a flash drive. I'm not sure of where the driver came from. When the flash drive was put into the computer it started loading something and the tech pulled it out and restarted the unit. After reboot the tech noticed that the start menu was empty. Typical of a hidden files infection. After a second reboot the unit goes straight to startup repair. I pulled the HDD out of the unit and hooked it up to another computer with an enclosure. The drive reads as 99.9% free space. All of the the folders are there but they all show as empty (0 bytes). The recovery partition is intact and the drive passes Dell diags. Any ideas on recovering the data? I'm sure I could just restore it but the client needs the data.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have two laptops (both Toshiba's, 4yrs and 2yrs old). Running Windows 7 Pro x64 on older one and Vista Home Prem x64 on newer one.
I want to get rid of older one (for obvious reasons), but don't want to purchase a new license for Windows 7. How can I swap the HDD's before ditching the antiquated unit?
Quote: Hold on to your seats gaming enthusiasts, Corsair just unleashed an onslaught of Vengeance series peripherals aimed at helping you dominate that Call of Duty marathon... and we got our hands on all of 'em. There's a lot to cover, so we'll get right to it. The K60 gamer keyboard boasts Cherry MX Red interchangeable keys for rapid fire, 20-key rollover, windows key lock and crazy fast reporting rate at 1000 reports per second. Its companion, the M60 mouse, implements an Avago 5670 DPI sensor, adjustable center of gravity, custom lift detection and high-mass scroll wheel. In addition to all that, this bad boy features a dedicated sniper button which allows you to hone in on your target that much faster. Read on for the full rundown on the goods. Read More at : Corsair Vengeance gaming keyboards, mice, and headsets hands-on
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to install Windows 7 Ultimate x64 on my new Kingston 128GB SSDNow V200 (SV200S37A/128G) and Asus M2N32-Sli Deluxe motherboard.The CPU is an AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ and I also have connected a Palit 9500GT graphics card via the primary PCI-E slot, PSU is Enermax 485W.I have the whole setup with a traditional hard drive working just fine in Windows XP Professional 32-Bit with SP3, what I am trying to do is switch over to using the new SSD with a fresh install of Win 7 Ult X64.The problem I am having is freezing/hanging when either on "Expanding WIndows Files" at 80% or usually on "Installing Features", either the cursor won't move or the dots next to "Installing Features" stop moving completely.. and I can just leave it for hours and nothing happens.
I have tried so far including combinations of each of these; Installing from DVD drive Installing from USB drive Installing from USB drive with slipstreamed SP1 Using PS/2 keyboard and mouse Installing with only one stick (2GB) of RAM, or two sticks (4GB) of RAM or four sticks (8GB) of RAM, or different pairs (4GB) of RAM Updated motherboard BIOS to latest beta version Swapped graphics card for another PCI-E card Swapped graphics card for a PCI card Installed on another PC.. worked fine on that PC (previous generation motherboard) then swapped to this machine but when Windows 7 has loaded it reboots the PC.. repair doesn't do anything just runs and runs finding nothing Installed Windows XP Professional 32-Bit with SP3 and all fine.. why won't Windows 7 install? Checked firmware of the SSD which is completely up to date Tried all 6/6 SATA ports Tried 4 different SATA cables Tried the SATA RAID port but no luck as driver won't install on Windows 7 installation due to it being "unsigned" I am very confused because surely if the SSD was incompatible with my motherboard then Windows XP Professional 32-Bit with SP3 wouldn't have installed and been working apparently flawlessly?
I have only about 100GB left on my mirrored RAID on my desktop and I am looking for a NAS. I have been looking at this Synology one and this Buffalo one. I like the Buffalo one because it comes with 12TB and depending on the drives may be cheaper.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a problem with the sound on my board "popping / clicking sound" like when you power on your speakers but it's constantly does that and even when on standby...I will start from the very first day when I built my PC.Well I built my PC from following parts :
Motherboard: ASUS MA578L-M/USB3 PSU: ALPINE 700W
RAM: Corsair XMS3 2x2GB 1600MHz 1.65V
GPU: Gainward nVidia GTX 550Ti 1GB / 192bit Golden Sample (also knows as "GS")
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition 3.2GHz / 8MB Cache
HEAT-SINK: Coolermaster Vortex Plus CPU Cooler
DVD driver: Pioneer DVR-S19LBK which is LightScribe as well
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F1 don't know which model exactly but spec. > 1TB / 7200RPM /3Gbps.
From the very beginning I had Windows XP 32bit (and of course all of my 4gigs didn't worked, and also I've been suffering sound delay eg. you've been shot and you see that but you'll hear it in about 2 seconds, so NOT GOOD) then I went on Windows 7 Ultimate 64bits (note that I haven't got a speakers JUST > HEADPHONES) so it solved the problem with RAM's (I can use all of them properly now) and I am happy with that, but it was annoying to be sitting all the time on the headphones, so I bought "Logitech X-530 5.1 speakers BRAND NEW ones. And the story began from that moment. I started to be hearing weird sounds and the sound takes a half of a second like "popping/clicking or beeping" or I don't know how it would be called like"..So I tried to bring whole motherboard back to the shop where I bought them, left it to them..After a couple of days I'm back and got told like "the thermal paste was on cpu's socket and cpu's pins "SOMEHOW" ?!?!?....got told again that I could choose that "Motherboard would be sent to ASUS supplier to clean the socket", but CPU I needed to clean my self but the guy was not too sure about my cpu's life and will it work properly or I don't know.. So it is sent now "the MOTHERBOARD" but I've been told to wait for it for another 28 days to get it back, but I couldn't wait for that much and I bought another one, exactly the same one I got sent but just BRAND NEW ONE. So brought home, CLEANED CPU TO THE CONDITION AS IT WAS NEW, added a bit of thermal paste on the surface of cpu, inserted everything onto they belonged positions "ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING AS IT SHOULD BE" = GOT THE SAME POPPING SOUND.....Well then I tried my friend's exactly the same cpu as I have "AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition etc." = SAME POPPING SOUND..So I'm getting to the conclusion that I need to check "THE RAM MODULES" Cause: NEW MOTHERBOARD SAME CPU *friend's one is doing the same popping sounds as my one (I've even tried my cpu on friend's computer and it goes well just 110% well as it should be")
well at first the screen would freeze, only thing i could do is restart the machine via the switch. Ive updated all the drivers i can, even updated the bios version. But everything i seem to do is making it worse now im having alot of non responsive programme's. Games are freezing up and staying froze for 30+ seconds then work for about 5 minutes and freeze again, sometimes fully stopping
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just installed windows 7 ultimate sp1 - Like the title says I'm seeing 35% cpu usage with nothing going on. I googled around and ran traces to see which driver it was, turned out the ahci driver was doing it. The USB driver showed similarly high latency but that can be delt with later. Most forums recommend upgrading your drivers but this problem has stayed constant both with microsoft's stock drivers for everything and after running windows built in search for drivers even after I manually grabbed the latest drivers for everything. url...BIOS is up to date4 GB RAM - Corsair something or otherEVGA Geforce 8800 GT450W psu1 DVD burner (sata)5 hard drives (sata) plugged into all but the first sata port because that caused nothing but headaches for me. Update - switching from AHCI to IDE in BIOS fixed the problem.
View 3 Replies View Relatedputting together an mobo handling 8GB ddr3 1333 & using max ram 8GB, duo core 2 E8400 3.0GHz 64bit chip, and installing Windows 7 HPrem 64bit. was wondering about how large of a power supply unit i should be considering?Sometimes all of the ram will prob be used w/ vid editing and other times just regular 2-3 applications open.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI am using Win 7 Pro x32 and have partitioned my hard drive into two NTFS partitions. One is for my Windows other one is for my files and personal documents.I'd like to know how to format the partitions in terms of cluster size. I read a lot of articles which didn't actually answer my question - what are the differences between formatting with a big and small cluster size, and how does all that influence the overall performance. I should also mention that I am willing to sacrifice some bits and bytes from my partitions, if needed, as long as I could somehow increase performance. Also, I noticed that the standard Windows 7's formatting dialogue allows to format a partition only with a limited size of clusters compared to trying to format a partition using software such as Acronis Disk Director or Paragon Hard Disk Manager where I was able to format with a much greater cluster size. What to do, what to do...? You could save the small talk such as - 'small cluster size wastes less disk space but works slower, and vice versa, greater cluster size wastes more space but gives better performance'.
View 11 Replies View Relatedknow whether Excel 2010's ruler units are in any way affected by/set by Window 7's Regional and Language, Measurement Settings?
View 1 Replies View RelatedThis is an issue with trying to use the Windows Backup utility with an external hard drive (Seagate GoFlex Desk) with more than 2TB of storage (in this case 3TB). I have looked into this and found that this is a common problem related to the backup utility being unable to deal with drives that have a 4kb allocation unit size. The typical advice is to reformat with an allocation size of 512B, which it will be able to work with.
The problem is that Windows will not let me reformat with that size. The smallest unit it allows is 4kb, which is exactly the problem. If I initiate the format dialog on other NTFS drives I have, 512B shows up as an option. Just not on my external. And yet, this solution appears all over the place and people have claimed it solved their problem. I have even (twice) tried creating a second partition on the external (1.5TB and then 1TB), neither has allowed an allocation unit size less than 4k, even though my 1TB internal drive did allow this.
I am not really interested in third party backup or imaging programs. With my old 500GB external, I used the Windows Backup utility to make a few system images and there have been at least two situations where a bad driver or something has resulted in having to go back to a restore point, but finding no suitable ones available, and thus restoring to the backup image. This has been the simplest way of recovering from these disasters and it has worked every time. For normal file backups, I have a number of cloud storage systems and I can use the software Seagate included with the drive. However, the one and only reason I got a hard drive this large is that it would allow me to make a lot of Windows system images, and that is the one thing I am unable to do. I do not understand why I cannot use the one fix everyone online recommends. I have emailed Seagate tech support about this but they have not responded.
I bought a 16gb Kingston Datatraveler USB drive. I want to format it and I'm unsure as to what Allocation Unit Size I should choose. My options are:
Default
4096 bytes
8192 bytes
16 kilobytes
32 kilobytes
64 kilobytes
8192 bytes is selected when I choose format.
Free driver download for Toshiba satellite c650D -2Q SYSTEN UNIT?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm wondering where I can find a free driver download for my toshiba satellite c650D -00E because my video audio on my built-in video camera is terrible.know where I can find this driver?
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