I have recently obtained a laptop with Windows 7 Home Premium installed. This is the first time I'm using Windows 7.My HDD light on the laptop keeps blinking, even when I'm not doing anything, just staring at the desktop. I don't notice anything on the performance, everything seems to run fineOne thing I was immediately aware of is how Windows 7 seems to run a lot of processes in the background; indexing, defragging, etc... I have turned these off, along with stuff like WDefender,Firewall, my hdd light still keeps blinking.I have also noticed that googling this issue reveals lots of results with mixed replies. Some say HDD light is supposed to be blinking and/or this is completely normal, others say it might be an issue.Just as I was writing this, I also downloaded a gadget for monitoring hdd: Drives Meter. Looking at the graph, the hdd doesn't seem to be doing much. It usually stays on %0, just some little activity here and there... Yet the light is blinking on a heartbeat rate. Bear in mind, I am running Comodo+Eset at the background; however, for comparison, on my PC (running XP Pro) which also runs Comodo+Eset, there is no blinking whatsoever.
my dell vostro1510,screen is lock and one button is blinking in blue light at the top.i tryed evrything ,pressing menu button,fuction key etc.plz tell me the exact way to unlock my screen
I just installed Windows 7 Ultimate to my new PC (was XP before) and I noticed that the HDD light blinks every second even if the PC's idle. Is that a normal behavior for Windows 7?
My only way of watching my blu-rays is on my computer. I've been using PowerDVD 11 Ultra for a while without significant problems. I recently noticed, however, that it was stopping playback during movies, simply pausing and then crashing. I decided to reinstall in the hope of getting smooth playback. After doing so, I had a new problem: all blu-ray video was now very light, forcing all darks to be gray, instead. I should note that I have a Radeon 5770 card and Catalyst's video settings are disabled to allow the player to function without interference (Catalyst 12.6). Despite that, however, PDVD still just gives me gray blacks. I tried downloading TotalMedia Theater and WinDVD trial versions to find a program that works right. To my shock and horror, I have the exact same problem with them, too. What is wrong with the blu-ray playback that has caused programs to play incorrectly? I am convinced that the problem is not related to my computer. One moment, everything was fine. The next moment, everything was bugged. Please note that all other video looks perfect, whether it be DVD, video files, or online videos with my Catalyst settings applied to them.Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? Does Blu-Ray software actually work right on computers? I noticed that the Cyberlink forums have plenty of people talking about this same issue happening with PDVD12. Considering that I had the exact problem with the other two programs, I think this goes beyond software developers.
I am using dell insipiron n5010. Windows was slow for thrower couple of days and today it's not even loading the desktop and the startup to the welcome page is dead slow. The hdd light is always on display.
I have put a SSD as my main drive. Running Windows 7 64-bit. I am now concerned that Windows 7 will wear this drive out as the drive light flashes constantly about 1-2 times per second. What could it possibly be doing sitting idle.
One big issue for me in Windows 7 after XP is that text in browser windows (like in IE9, Firefox and Thunderbird) lacks contrast - it's a pale grey rather than the black I had in the same apps in XP. Actually this text is pale grey as I type it.This seems to be "global" and no amount of fiddling in the apps themselves does any good. There was never any problem in XP.I'm using an Aero theme, but I've tried a basic theme and tried chaning the window colours manually.
When I want to turn on my computer, After pressing the power button, the lights and fans start but not the computer itself. I need to turn off (by holding the power button pressed) and on several times until finaly the computer starts.
like the title says.the hdd light is ALWAYS on.ALWAYS..even not a second OFF..and most of the time..boot pauses at motherboard name screen..and it makes the boot slow.
I pulled apart my HP dv6t 6000 Quad Edition last night to clean a year's worth of dust accumulation out of it. While I was quite impressed at how sturdy the construction of the laptop was (22 good, strong screws holding in the top cover alone), I put it back together and the orange indicator light is stuck ON (the one that says if the AC cable is plugged in or not) even if it's not plugged in! So, I pulled it back apart and re-checked the power connector cable, and everything was fine and in place. It goes on even if the laptop is turned off. As long as the battery is in, that orange light turns on.
The orange light is only supposed to come on if the AC is plugged in and the battery is charging. Also, if I plug in the AC cable, it light turns off. I never actually removed the power connector cable from the system board, so there's no way it got turned around. Could this be caused, however, if another plug somewhere got turned around? For further reference, here is the manual I used. [URL]. I went as far as removing the system board.
Items I did not remove are as follows: Power button board Fingerprint reader board Speaker assemblies (front and back) (My laptop has no bluetooth module, so that's irrelevant) USB Board Power connector cable
I have a dell Inspiron from 2010 desktop of and today when I turned it on it went through all the boot up sequence normally. I try to login but I can't the USB mouse or keyboard are lighting up since the mouse is a laser and the keyboard has the num lock light. I go to the back and check and see if my Ethernet light is on its off. I pulled out my USB and tried the one in the front no luck. When I enter bios the keyboard works. Also I turned off the computer holding the button unfortunately. I pulled the plug out and held the power button for 30 seconds to drain the on board battery. When I turned it back on I had no luck both the keyboard and mouse were not working and the Ethernet light is still off. One more thing my PSU has always had a small led on it it always lit up green and it still was.
I have just updated Windows 7 64 bit Ultimate to SP1, and my HDD light is constantly flickering? There is no discernable differnce in the performance of windows and it boots and runs fine, it's just that the light is a bright neon blue colour and is very distracting!It happens from the moment my desktop appears or when being online like I am now typing this. Can ANYONE please shed some light on this matter? I am at my wits end LOL!!!A friend did tell me that turning off SUPERFETCH in the list of running services might work. I did this when I originally bought and installed 7 as I was having the same problem then, this time however, it's not had ANY difference, I still get a BRIGHT blue light constantly dancing beneath my eyes.
It is a Chinese wholesale site that pops up all the time on the side of CNET.It has reasonable prices; but who has used it?Is it a reputable site to purchase from?
I'm using a Fujitsu S6520 that I recently upgraded to Windows 7 Professional (32 bit). The fujitsu comes with 8 preset screen backlight levels that can be adjusted via the fn key on the keyboard. Prior to this, I was using Windows XP on the same computer, and I used to set the backlight at level 3. After upgrading to Windows 7, even level 2 is too bright (it is slightly higher than level 3 on windows xp even), and level 1 is too dark. The jump is drastic. Oddly, when I am in BIOS mode, the backlight levels work fine. The jumps are gradual, and like how it was in Windows XP, level 3 is a comfortable level. I notice that I can control the backlight via Windows Mobility Centre. But even there, the levels along the slider are preset. The lowest backlight is 1, the 2nd is 15, 3rd is 29 and so on. If there is a way that I could reduce backlight level 2 on my computer to around 10 or 11 in Windows Mobility Centre, that would be perfect.
I have a problem that's been driving me crazy. I'm new here so forgive me and feel free to direct me to any thread if it's been posted already.So I have a HP DV6-2162NR laptop and the mute button (touch) is stuck in the mute position (see picture).The button works completely fine, as in it will mute and unmute on command but the button does not change color from orange to white. I couldn't do a system restore because there wasn't one saved. I tried disabling the sound card but that didn't work.I'll restart it and it turns white. But as soon as Windows 7 loads, it turns orange and stays orange.
I recently experiencing a serious problem with my laptop (Sony-vaio Z720D). It has became very slow and system startup takes too much time (about 7 mins), after starting up, HDD light is permanently on and system is very slow for about 30 mins and then it comes back to normal. I checked the running processes from task manager but there's nothing to do with them, also startup programs aren't taking too much memory. My function keys are not working except for volume control. I am pretty sure that there's no virus in my system, I checked it with my antivirus (nod32) and microsoft security essentials. I also checked my c drive with CHKDSK it could'nt find any error related.
I own a sony vaio vpcf111fd running windows 7 64 bit home. A couple months ago, my webcam just stopped working. I've tried opening just the application, I've tried using it through msn, skype and FB chat, but it always has the same issue. The little green light comes on, but the screen is all black.
i just installed CLEAN install of Windows 7 Upgrade (OEM) and it takes 45 seconds to boot up YAY
but ever since i installed norto n360. 2 minutes? i hate resource hogging programs.
I am looking for an anti virus that is super great that barely affects your pc boot up (or no effects at all to make pc boot faster) and well, not a resource hog that makes ur computer crash.
so any suggestions for what antivirus programs (i need people who actually tried the product and has experienced it, not just suggestions without knowing) fits what i am looking for? i am currently using norton 360 3.0 its good but slows my laptop.
Well, I think we might have a new one, I looked back a few pages in the whole list of topics.
My wife's computer is using a fresh install of Windows 7 build 7000.
This problem seems to happen randomly and we cant find a rhyme or reason to it. At first I thought it might be a heat issue, perhaps with the video card. Well about 4 months back(the blinking problem was not present at this time), I found her video card's fan had stopped working and we replaced the card with a new nVidia 9600GT.
The blinking started maybe a week or two ago.
Rebooting the computer does not help in most cases.
Placing my monitor on her computer was inconclusive. It did not blink.
Placing her monitor on my computer was also inconclusive. It did not blink.
Right now she is using a driver that is dated 4/2/2009. We are currently downloading the driver for 4/30/2009 hoping this will help, and once it is downloaded and installed, I will write back on my findings. Maybe we should update to the latest build of 7?
If I'm in the wrong forum, or location or if I missed a post regarding this same issue, please let me know so we can get this figured out on our end.
I shut down the computer but did not unplug it from the surge protector. We were messing with the main breaker box in the house.When i went to turn it back on nothing. Monitor work everything and else that is plugged in to the surge protector. Took the computer apart and opened and cleaned all dust out Plugged it back in and nothing. There is a green light on the back just under the plug which is lit up (Green) as it was before I took it a part. Can't say I remember weather or not it was lit previously. Check on line and suggestions are the power supply may be bad. However I can't seam to find out if the power supply would be bad would the green light be on, which seams to be connected to the power supply box.
