I'm using a Fujitsu S6520 that I recently upgraded to Windows 7 Professional (32 bit). The fujitsu comes with 8 preset screen backlight levels that can be adjusted via the fn key on the keyboard. Prior to this, I was using Windows XP on the same computer, and I used to set the backlight at level 3. After upgrading to Windows 7, even level 2 is too bright (it is slightly higher than level 3 on windows xp even), and level 1 is too dark. The jump is drastic. Oddly, when I am in BIOS mode, the backlight levels work fine. The jumps are gradual, and like how it was in Windows XP, level 3 is a comfortable level. I notice that I can control the backlight via Windows Mobility Centre. But even there, the levels along the slider are preset. The lowest backlight is 1, the 2nd is 15, 3rd is 29 and so on. If there is a way that I could reduce backlight level 2 on my computer to around 10 or 11 in Windows Mobility Centre, that would be perfect.
The issue is that my screen will go dim after switching users or switching users and switching back, its not a set pastern and doesn't happen every time. so i havnt been able to reproduce the issue, however i have had it happen to more then one of my computers and on more then one installation of windows 7 (and windows 2008R2 in one instance).uling out basicly any hardware issue is that my cursor always remains bright and sometimes switching/logout/login will resolve the issue on one account or the other account (no patern)Decreasing the chances of a driver issue is that i have had this problem on 2 systems with different brand graphics over the course of 2 and 3 windows installations respectively all with multiple driver updates and re installations.
Ruling out a connection to UAC is that i have UAC totaly disabled on both machines Heres the rub, i might be doing this to myself... but i cant just except that.instead of having my screen lock after a certain time frame, i use a special screen saver that 'runs a program'. the program ive chosen is "tsdiscon.exe", the executable used to invoke a 'switch user'.when theses 2 computers are left unattended i need the next user to see the user selection screen, ive had too many issues with people not knowing to hit the "switch user" button on the lock screen.ive found all sorts of people having this issue (dim screen bright cursor), but many seem to be dead ends or fixes that only fix the symptoms like the one show here display - Why does my screen dim on a desktop installation of Windows 7? - Super UserIn that case someone suggested forcing the graphics card to use its own color/brightness profile instead of the systems, i tried this and it does seem to work but i want to know why the system profile is screwed up.
I shut down the computer but did not unplug it from the surge protector. We were messing with the main breaker box in the house.When i went to turn it back on nothing. Monitor work everything and else that is plugged in to the surge protector. Took the computer apart and opened and cleaned all dust out Plugged it back in and nothing. There is a green light on the back just under the plug which is lit up (Green) as it was before I took it a part. Can't say I remember weather or not it was lit previously. Check on line and suggestions are the power supply may be bad. However I can't seam to find out if the power supply would be bad would the green light be on, which seams to be connected to the power supply box.
I have Macular DeGeneration which causes my vision to require a lot of light or a high degree of darkness of the text and a light background to read. Example this text I am using now for this message is ok as long as I have increased the side of this display to about 2.5 times the size of the normal screen which increases the text size a lot. Trying to read email requires the magnifier option provided with Win 7 Pro, In Windows Live Mail I cannot increase the size of the windows as you can do on the Web, In talking about Windows Live Mail if I am looking at new mail which allways comes in bold I can see just infe whitout increasing the size of the font.. High contrast text makes much better reading, windows 7 Pro is much worse than XP.Increased the dots per inch that worked ok except it fouls up Expression Web 4 what I use to keep web sites up to date, It just looks to me like this, example if a person would restrict a light bulb to be lit 100% would be bright, 40% would be very dim, that looks to me like the problem in order to reduce current.
My laptop screen is too bright and hurting my eyes (due to a change in working location). How do I adjust the brilliance?
My System:
Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 1.0.0.2 OS Version: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, Service Pack 1, 32 bit Processor: Pentium(R) Dual-Core CPU T4200 @ 2.00GHz, x64 Family 6 Model 23 Stepping 10
Ive tried all the obvious things, but even on default it's too bright. i have it on the lowest brightness settings and it's still to bright. I really dont want to kill the lcd backlight
Ok I was working on warcraft 3, basically the game increases the gamma (due to an internal setting on it) and would normally reduce it again on exit.
After the crash the gamma on my desktop is too high but also cannot be adjusted, some external setting stuck somewhere.
If I go to the nvidia panel and select "adjust desktop colour settings" "other applications control colour settings" is selected, if I choose "use nvidia settings" then my desktop reverts to normal but of course this stops games adjusting the setting.
So my question is can this situation be recovered if so and how? loading the game again and exiting does not recover the setting.
Occasionally when I boot up my PC (Windows 7 Pro SP1), the screen is dulled but the mouse pointer (arrow) is very bright. When it's like this, if I open an application the text and the caret pointer are very dull and difficult to read. The situation doesn't change if I try a different monitor. So far, the only way I've found to get back to normal is to re-boot.
I cleaned my laptop screen with a damp cloth and later wiped it dry with another cloth. I left it for about four hours but when I put it on there is this bright white patch on the bottom right of the screen. How do I get it off? The pc is working normally.
I know that the NEW series of the I7 came out and labeled 2600 but then what are the different "levels" of the 2600 I7 Processor? trying to buy the BEST desktop for under $1000 with an I7 and thinking that Costco might offer me the most???
I have all my volume levels maxed out however the volume meter only fills about 10-15% of the scale. I've tried for hours to fix this to no avail. When I click "Test speakers" the sound levels are fine, only for that.
Things I've tried:
Updating Drivers Reinstall windows. Reinstall windows on a different HDD. Tried multiple audio devices, exact same problem with on board sound and with my sound card. Tried changing the quality of the sound to DVD, CD, Studio etc, same problem with all options. Disabling onboard sound in the BIOS, still same problem with my sound card. Updating BIOS
I'm all out of ideas, nothing I do seems to fix it. I'm gonna try install windows 8 on another HDD soon and see if the same problem is present there.
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UPDATE It seems to be only with "System Sounds" and Video Games, Steam etc.
Is it possible to lock the microphone level so that applications no longer are able to adjust its level? Often with games that have in-game voice chat capability, you'll notice that they turn your microphone level up to 100. A small thing really, but sort of annoying when you have to revert it back, even though most of the time it's just once.
I am trying to transfer my band's backing tracks from a Sony MiniDisc Player to my new IdeaPad y550 (Windows 7) using 1/8" stereo jacks from the MiniDisc Player to the stereo mic in on the laptop. My record levels are fine (optimum) but playback of the file results in considerably lower volume. The VU meters during playback are at the levels I recorded but actual audio volume is much lower.Same problem regardless of the software I am using (Sound Recorder, CakeWalk, WavePro, etc.) so I am hoping it is some global setting I can't find...
Just had my PC converted from Vista 64bit to Windows 7 and suddenly have no sound. Checked 'Device Manager' and updated driver and this indicates all is well, but still no sound. I have also checked to make sure volume levels are good and that there is nothing muted:
Lately my PC has been weird, whenever i launch any game my computer just turns off but in a verry unusual way, The Screen goes black, the pc fans stop spinning, nothing is working, but my power button is still bright blue (showing that the pc is still on but its not), i press the button, nothing happens and if i un-plug the power cable, the power button stays on for about 10 seconds, then when i plug the power cable back in the pc turns on just normally like every time, but i still get crash if i launch a game, this is my pc Configuration: [code] This has been happening for a couple months now and its getting verry annoying, i'm thinking of buying a gaming PC but that costs 3,000 and i need a good working PC while i save up money.I have reinstalled Windows a few weeks after the problem accoured, it did not fix it. I also updated all my drivers, still not working...
my problem is, the 'low ink' light on my Epson Stylus CX4300 is already blinking and i can't seem to know which cartridge is in low ink status. if one of those cartridges got empty, i won't be able to print anymore. what should i do? i've already tried updating the drivers but the ink level status won't show up. this is what appears:
i also tried clicking the 'update to latest version' but this is what appears:
Every day or two, Windows 7 is REVERSE dimming on me and I can only fix it with a reboot.What I mean is, suddenly when the AC Adapter is PLUGGED IN, the screen will be DIM (Even though control panel shows it as max brightness on the slider). But then once I UNPLUG the adapter, the screen is bright like its supposed to be..For the life of me I can't figure it out, but it's driving me to the point of insanity because I keep having to reboot so often.
I have a USB Microphone, a Samson C01U. I also have a regular microphone, which I plug into the audio jack. The microphone that's plugged into the audio jack shows up correctly in the levels tab of my speaker's properties. I can mute/unmute it, and adjust the volume that I hear it in my speakers. My USB Microphone however, does not. Is there anyway I could get it to work that way and hear it in my speakers? Because I know that if I just use "listen to this device", there will be severe audio delay between when I speak and when I hear it.
I accidentally deleted some important files/folders which caused the whole downloaded videos/games get lost in a few minutes,i didnt even notice that it was deleting.I tried system restore but it didnt work,is there any other way to get your systems time back up for 2-3 days back?
I have recently obtained a laptop with Windows 7 Home Premium installed. This is the first time I'm using Windows 7.My HDD light on the laptop keeps blinking, even when I'm not doing anything, just staring at the desktop. I don't notice anything on the performance, everything seems to run fineOne thing I was immediately aware of is how Windows 7 seems to run a lot of processes in the background; indexing, defragging, etc... I have turned these off, along with stuff like WDefender,Firewall, my hdd light still keeps blinking.I have also noticed that googling this issue reveals lots of results with mixed replies. Some say HDD light is supposed to be blinking and/or this is completely normal, others say it might be an issue.Just as I was writing this, I also downloaded a gadget for monitoring hdd: Drives Meter. Looking at the graph, the hdd doesn't seem to be doing much. It usually stays on %0, just some little activity here and there... Yet the light is blinking on a heartbeat rate. Bear in mind, I am running Comodo+Eset at the background; however, for comparison, on my PC (running XP Pro) which also runs Comodo+Eset, there is no blinking whatsoever.
I just installed Windows 7 Ultimate to my new PC (was XP before) and I noticed that the HDD light blinks every second even if the PC's idle. Is that a normal behavior for Windows 7?
My only way of watching my blu-rays is on my computer. I've been using PowerDVD 11 Ultra for a while without significant problems. I recently noticed, however, that it was stopping playback during movies, simply pausing and then crashing. I decided to reinstall in the hope of getting smooth playback. After doing so, I had a new problem: all blu-ray video was now very light, forcing all darks to be gray, instead. I should note that I have a Radeon 5770 card and Catalyst's video settings are disabled to allow the player to function without interference (Catalyst 12.6). Despite that, however, PDVD still just gives me gray blacks. I tried downloading TotalMedia Theater and WinDVD trial versions to find a program that works right. To my shock and horror, I have the exact same problem with them, too. What is wrong with the blu-ray playback that has caused programs to play incorrectly? I am convinced that the problem is not related to my computer. One moment, everything was fine. The next moment, everything was bugged. Please note that all other video looks perfect, whether it be DVD, video files, or online videos with my Catalyst settings applied to them.Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? Does Blu-Ray software actually work right on computers? I noticed that the Cyberlink forums have plenty of people talking about this same issue happening with PDVD12. Considering that I had the exact problem with the other two programs, I think this goes beyond software developers.
I am using dell insipiron n5010. Windows was slow for thrower couple of days and today it's not even loading the desktop and the startup to the welcome page is dead slow. The hdd light is always on display.
I have put a SSD as my main drive. Running Windows 7 64-bit. I am now concerned that Windows 7 will wear this drive out as the drive light flashes constantly about 1-2 times per second. What could it possibly be doing sitting idle.
One big issue for me in Windows 7 after XP is that text in browser windows (like in IE9, Firefox and Thunderbird) lacks contrast - it's a pale grey rather than the black I had in the same apps in XP. Actually this text is pale grey as I type it.This seems to be "global" and no amount of fiddling in the apps themselves does any good. There was never any problem in XP.I'm using an Aero theme, but I've tried a basic theme and tried chaning the window colours manually.
When I want to turn on my computer, After pressing the power button, the lights and fans start but not the computer itself. I need to turn off (by holding the power button pressed) and on several times until finaly the computer starts.
