I'm having some strange problems with my PSU. My computer went black last night while I was playing GTA IV. After some research on the web, I came to a conclusion that my PSU died. I attempted the paperclip trick with no success - fans didnt do anything. I was about ready to start shopping for a new one, plugged everything back into places, when I saw a red 115V/230V switch on the back. I switched it from default 115V to 230V and tried the paperclip test again. This time the fan on the back of the case (not PSU) started spinning, and lights on the front and the green light on CD-ROM lit up. I plugged the 24 pin connector back into the motherboard, and hit the on switch (still with 230V), and the same thing happened.From what I described above, what do you think has gone wrong with my PC? And why is PSU acting the way it is?
A standby machine that I have is having trouble starting. When first turned on, it will attempt a start, drive lights fans etc come on then within 3 seconds, go out and repeat. This does this for about 5-6 iterations and then starts normal and will run until turned off. This system has one HDD, one DVD drive, MB graphics, so I don't think there is much of a load.
My original problem, i am sure is my power suplly, I have just upgraded to the cross hair V main board. My computer has been restarting randomly during intensive game play. it didn't do this before my upgrade. Secondly as i have said above i currently have a 500w PSU. I am thinking of upgrading to the antec High Current Gamer 750 watt. I have filled in the system specs. do you think it will run my computer perfectly. also i will be getting 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM and an ATI 6970 will the antec PSU be enough?
i just bought a new gpu (Nvidia Gefore Gt 440) but it reccomends more than 400 watts, i only have 240 watts. Due to this, games lag on my new gpu. Can i overclock my power supply so i dont have to buy a new one?
Which power supply is better for gaming? CHIEFTEC 750W PSU, 85+,230V W/CABLE MNG ( CTG-750C ) Or OCZ ZT Series 750W fully Modular 80 Plus Bronze, ATX12V v2.2 Active PFC ( OCZ-ZT750W-EU )In future i might Sli/crossfire.
I replaced my power supply and now I get a 0x80070035 error when trying to map my network storage server. I've had this mapped for over a year, and usually just need to enter the password to re-connect after a re-boot. I've tried disabling the firewall, anti-virus, file and printer sharing, etc. I looked for the extra network entries that others have said to delete, but I don't have any.
This computer is running Windows 7 Professional 64 bit. The network storage server is running Windows 7 Professional 32 bit. From the 32 bit machine the 64 bit machine shows up, even in explorer.
From the 64 bit machine the 32 bit does not show up except under the Network and sharing center, selecting "see full map" shows both machines.
I can't see how changing a power supply could cause a problem. I tried going back to a restore point from last week in case a "windows update" caused the problem, which did not show up until the latest re-boot, but that did not help either.
Right I have a 550ti but only a 300w power supply. My performance is shocking on it. Is this cause my power supply? It's recommended to have a 400w +. Also my processor is only at like 70-80% use.
I am starting to think I may have a power supply issue and none of the programs I use seem to monitor it correctly or the power supply is bad. I have been using TOverclocker (came with my Biostar MB), Speccy, Everest, HWinfo64, HWinfo32 and SpeedFan. None of these give me consistent measurements or measure the voltages wrong from opening the program. Is there a monitor program out there that is very good at measuring power supply voltages. My MB is a Biostar TZ68A+.
I've got a gateway model computer I want to upgrade, but I need a 400W power supply for the card I'm buying, should I be worried about a new power supply being incompatible for any reasons with my computer?
Through a clean install I switched to Windows 7 last week. Today being the 6th day since I switched, the computer has frozen 4 times. Of the 4 times, one was just a sudden power down without a proper shutdown.
Through event viewer, the log suggested an error dealing with power supply.
Since I've noticed that multiple PCs on different processors are seeing the same error, I would like to know if there have been any fixes released for this yet.
I installed the graphics card but it needs 6 pin PCI-E auxiliary power connector, my power supply is DELL J102N PS-5361-2 360 Watt Power Supply XPS 435MT and it doesn't have this 6 pins, when i start my computer it's just giving me 6 beeps which means Video card failure. What should i do?
My brother needs a video card but me being the smart one here. I got his info from dxdiag and I need a recommendation for two things , a video card and power supply. His current power supply runs at a max of 250w and it seems low, mine being 500w so its the right thing to upgrade in order to get a video card. keep video card recommendations "single slot" only since I have no idea how to hook up a video card to a power supply. Single slot ones are simple.
System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit Manufacturer : Hewlett-Packard Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) II X4 640 Processor Memory: 4096MB RAM OS Memory: 3840MB RAM Power Supply : 250W Max
Ever since I changed my power supply from an Orion 480W to my current Cooler Master power supply, my pc will not sleep. It initiates sleep but then immediately turns back on and boots to the login screen. I have tried everything! From powercfg in cmd to changing the seetings on the motherboard in bios, and disabling all hardware from waking my system up to changing the power supply settings in windows. I am considering doing a reinstall of windows
recommendations for compatible power supply & graphic card upgrades. My current model is EL1352-03 (specs from Newegg below):[URL]Is it realistic to upgrade this model due to the motherboard case & available slots?
If the computer is shut down and disconnected from the power supply for about 5 hours or longer I get a bluescreen right after the windows boot screen. Otherwise it starts without problems and works fine. My workaround for the problem after long shut down is to switch on the power supply, then immediately switch it off and then on again. This works always fine!
My System:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP1 AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 4GB (2x2) 1333-777 RAM ATI Radeon HD 5570
Blue Screen: *** STOP: 0x0000001E (0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000)
I already used all of the windows debugging, diagnostic tools and Memtest but without success.
My computer keeps shutting itself down with the following error message:
"Power surges detected during the previous power on. ASUS anti-surge was triggered to protect the system from unstable power.......(see below for photo of screen).
So I bought a UPS in the hopes of controlling the flow of power to my computer. Unfortunately that didn't work so I assumed that the power supply unit must be broken. I have replaced it and I am still getting the crash/error. So I simply disabled the feature on teh motherboard that controls anti-surge protection and now my computer simply crashes and powers down.
I have checked the event logs and noticed this being logged right before the crash every time:
"File System Filter 'aswSnx' (6.0, 2012-03-07T01:04:05.000000000Z) has successfully loaded and registered with Filter Manager."
dxdiag: ------------------ System Information ------------------ Time of this report: 5/23/2012, 20:17:39 Machine name: ENDUSER-PC
My desktop does not detect and external hard drive that do not come with their own power supply. I have many externals that also plug into the wall and they are working fine; but whenever it is an external without a plug, i.e. the portable ones they are never found.
They do not show up in Computer Management, so it is not because I did not assign a letter to the drive.
I have tried various things, but I don't know what I should be testing for or looking for. These externals all work on other laptops and other desktops perfectly fine so it is not the externals. When they are plugged into my desktop, they light up normally like they should, but the desktop never detects them. I have tried these externals with the different USB cable I have on hand, but nothing seems to work. It doesn't matter which USB port I plug the device in, it still gives me no response.
putting together an mobo handling 8GB ddr3 1333 & using max ram 8GB, duo core 2 E8400 3.0GHz 64bit chip, and installing Windows 7 HPrem 64bit. was wondering about how large of a power supply unit i should be considering?Sometimes all of the ram will prob be used w/ vid editing and other times just regular 2-3 applications open.
I keep getting BSODs .I tried many things but doesnt solved my problem.I dont know how to open the minidump files.All i can do is use WhoCrased or BlueScreeView.But i heared they are not showing all and i must take a look in minidumps.How do i open the .dmp files?
Crash Dump Analysis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Crash dump directory: C:WindowsMinidump Crash dumps are enabled on your computer. On Sun 26.08.2012 07:29:29 GMT your computer crashed crash dump file: C:WindowsMinidump�82612-18828-01.dmp
I installed a power supply and removed the floppy disk from a Dell Optiplex GX520. Now when I turn it on, it says there is no serial ATA SATA-2 nor parallel ATA, Path=0 (Pri Master.) Everything is working so I don't know what the problem is.
I have three ram sticks. One, I had replaced because it had been scanned as being faulty. After a while I began to have the same problems as when I still had the ram stick, so I I took out one to see how it worked, and it was fine, so I assumed the one I had taken out was faulty as well, but later I found it to be a little suspicious, so I tested the second bad one in the slot that my good one had been in and it worked. Then I tried the good one in the slot that the bad ones had been in and that's when I had a problem, so it appears my ram stick slot is the problem. Is there a way to find real proof ?
I am completely stumped as my keyboard has gone haywire and am quite annoyed i cant fix itAm running windows 7 on toshiba satellite pro laptop and was wondering if its a software or perhaps hardware issue.Here is what is happening:- Caps lock light doesnt stay on anymore but it flashes when i press it. It does still work properly though- Left SHIFT key still works but when i press it.....it also creates this symbol ~ at the same time within UK keyboard. If i change to US keyboard then it enters the PIPE symbol.- The ~ key above the tab key actually does this And the pipe key which is above the Enter key types this: #7
So, I recently picked up this external hard drive from a friend, who was having some issues with it. From his first description I thought I would be able to solve it myself, but i1-The Hard drive, is a standard external one connected to the PC via a standard USB cable ( One regular USB connector on the PC side and a small one, I believe they are refered to as 'mini-USB Type B' on the drive's side).2-When connected to the PC it shows up like an internal hard drive, strangely, not with the external devices.3-It cannot be browsed or accessed in any other way, the windows explorer will either, load -extremely- slowly, without success, OR freeze OR simply say it cannot be accessed.4-The furthest I got in terms of interacting with it, was to uninstall and reinstall it via disk manager.
5-All other attempts fail, formatting is impossible as a right click leads to the problems described in point 3. (I tried to format after uninstalling/installing the drive, since a message came up telling me to do so, eventhough I was planning to do it anyway)6-The drive brand is completely unknown to me, it was purchased in Hong Kong and bears the label 'Buffalo'.
I thought this was a problem only when I had my monitor switched to 120hz because it turned off alot back when I had it on, so I had been playing with 60hz for a while and tried my luck turning it back to 120hz, worked for a few days but now it seems it cant handle it, even in 60hz. It's a newly built PC!I have checked graphics card with Furmark and no problems there, ran memtest overnight, passed tests. I cant upload any minidump files because it is empty. I've reseating heatsink[CODE]
I recently plugged in a Corsair Voyager USB stick which turned out to be faulty. As part of confirming this (after not being able to access it in Windows) I checked if it was visible in the BIOS which it was but seems to be dead. I removed the Voyager drive but upon the restart Windows failed to load, it gets to the load screen and just as the animation starts it BSODs for 0.5 of a second and then restarts. It does this without fail in safe mode and does the same with the HDD plugged into another PC.Nothing in the Recovery Console fixes the problem, CHKDSK says there are no issues, for some reason Sys Restore isn't functioning in the RC etc etc. I managed to get the stop code:stop: 0x0000007B (0xFFFFF880009A98E8,0xFFFFFFFFC0000034, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000)This suggests to me that there is probably an issue with the SATA / chipset drivers and I can only assume that they have somehow been corrupted when Windows was trying to detect the faulty USB stick. I know that SATA drivers can be installed separately on a Win install but surely you can also re-load them or load default drivers in the Recovery Console from either the Windows 7 disk or chipset drivers from another location
I am stuck trying to figure out whether or not an optical drive messing up could have some serious performance repercussions. This is because my computer is freezing pedantically and I took Windows' advice and assumed it was my HDD which was corrupt.i bought a new one, installed it and everything seems all right at the moment, the only problem is is that I am on a fresh install of windows and my optical drive is being temperamental - sometimes working, other times not even realising it has a disc in it. When it does realise it has a disc in it, the applications (such as driver installers) crash mid-way through their process - my computer locks up and begins to freeze again, but this time, I can just eject the disk and everything sorts itself out almost straight away.
