Switching A Monitor Between VGA & DVI-D Digital ?
Nov 21, 2009
As I posted in the monitors forum, I am having problems with a new LG W2053 TQ monitor. Being used with a new HP Pavillion Elite PC. Great picture, but just can't get any of the OSD or configuration screens to appear.
It has those touch sensitive buttons on the front. Have tried everything, but they never appear on the screen no matter how I press them (quickly, tapped, held for several seconds, etc.)
Other than that, the monitor is great.
Have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable for a digital connection, rather than VGA.
Was wondering if perhaps to get these OSD screens to appear, the monitor needs, and uses somehow, the analog VGA cable for this. So, thought I'd give it a try. Now have both cables in place.
But, I'm reasonably sure that the PC is still using the DVI-D digital cable for its output to the PC. Looked in all (I think all) the monitor related screens in Windows 7 but can't find where it is.
a. Is there an option in Windows 7, somewhere, to tell Windows7 which to use, and to switch the output spigots between VGA and DVI-D going to the monitor ?
b. Or, any thoughts as to why the config OSD screens won't appear would also be most appreciated.
I have two computers. The monitor (Acer) on #1 quit working. I switched monitors. #2 monitor (samsung) didn't work on #1 either. I thought it might be my computer. My brother got his monitor working with it. We thought it might have been my cables. I bought new ones. I tried it (with new cables) with monitor from #2. Didn't work. I put the orignial monitor back on, and it works. Now the monitor from #2 doesn't work on #2. I think it might be a driver issue, but not sure.
I have a HP Slimline PC and a SyncMaster 2343(BWPlus/BWXPlus)(Analog) Monitor. The monitor two connection options. It has a standard VGA & DVI-D Single Link. The PC only has the VGA(BLUE)connection. If I use an adapter,(DVI-D single link male 18+1 to VGA female) will my monitor then switch to digital?
I cant go higher than 1200 1024 i think its. I was able to run in 1600 1200 in Xp on the same monitor. In the settings it even says recommended 1600. When i try this resolution the monitor just switches of so i press escape to get back to one previous. This occurs with any resolution above 1200.
Ive been with this problem since ive had windows 7 [couple months, more] now. I thought that if i buy a newer monitor this might fix it but if i can use 1600 resolution without buying monitor just yet then that would be great.
I run a dual monitor setup, and I use two user profiles and switch between them throughout the day. I set up both user profiles identically, which is as: In each profile, I run multiple instances of Internet Explorer 9, so I have four or five Internet Explorer windows open with multiple tabs open within each window. I keep two IE9 windows open on my left monitor, and three open on my right monitor. I also have MS Word and MS Excel open on my left monitor, and two notepads open on my right.
When I click on Start and switch user accounts, if I go back into my first user account, my windows will have either moved off screen somewhere, or they will have moved to the first monitor. The behavior is inconsistent in which windows are shifted around, but the windows end up moving none the less, and it ruins my work flow. I spend all my time setting up the windows back to their 'correct' positions.
Switching users to the 2nd user account will cause the same consequences with the windows set up on the 2nd account, thus defeating the purpose of utilizing multiple profiles to make work more efficient. I recently switched to Windows 7 on a new computer. My "old faithful" has Vista 64 does not exhibit the window shifting issue.
I am running a new 2nd gen sandybridge system, with an asus h67 motherboard and an i7-2600. I have 16 gigs of ddr3, and Win 7 64 Home Premium. I have an ATI Radeon HD 6570 running both monitors, with the latest video drivers installed. I've encountered this issue with and without ATI Catalyst suite installed and with/without Ultramon installed.
I don't want to revert back to Vista 64 just because it will be a lot of downtime to install and transfer my profiles again on the new machine, and I'd like to stay on the most current OS regardless, but I may have to switch back to Vista if this is a known issue on 7. We use dual monitor Windows 7 setups at the company I work for (my day job), and Ive verified 3 of my coworkers also have this issue. I also replicated this issue myself on one of the work Win 7 comps.
I've recently switched to Digital Audio (S/PDIF) (High Definition Audio Device) using one Toslink cable instead of all the analog wires going from my PC to my receiver.The digital sound is amazing, CD quality from my PC is great.However, I now also receive the digitized sound of pages being loaded as I surf the web. All sound comes out digitized when loading a new page.Is there a way to stop this from happening while listening to music or course material without gong back to analog?Can I have my digital CD quality and enjoy it too!
get windows 7 to switch audio drivers when you switch to another user account.
For eg.. normal speakers device for my personal account and then have my multichannel device (profire 2626) set as default for my other user account 4 studio work.
Atm, if i change it on one account it changes on the other account which is annoying and i'd just like to set default device for each account so i don't have to do this.
I have a three monitor set up. Whenever I open up a browser, either internet explorer or google chrome on monitors 2 and 3, after a few seconds it automatically drags my browser into my main monitor(monitor 1, where my start button and status bar is located)
I have a setup with 6 monitors. Today my main monitor broke and I couldn't find a way to shut the PC down since I couldn't access the main desktop to get to the Start menu.Is there a way to change which monitor is the main monitor without having access to the current main monitor?
OK for the first time since the early Win XP x64, I'm thinking about switching to a 64bit windows version.
Got a lot of questions though. I've been using 64bit OSs other the Windows and they all seem to have various problems with drivers and most of all running 32bit programs.
How does it all look on Windows? i.e. i'm using Adobe Master collection cs4 and am wondering if it will work with windows x64... what about antiviruses, Flash etc?
Ps. Is anyone using the x64 on acer aspire 69xx series? If everything running OK?
I am running a dual monitor setup with my TV hooked up via HDMI to my laptop.
Everything was working fine before, I always had the laptop as my main display yet I could play a video or a game fullscreen on the TV.
Since a couple of days, as soon as I put something in fullscreen, it immediately goes on my laptop, regardless if it's open on my TV or my laptop. I don't remember changing/installing anything that could've changed that...
I checked a bit in the AMD vision software and the Windows control pannel but I can't seem to solve my problem without switching my TV as the main display. I also made a quick search on google as well as here but the problems were mainly with Flash, which isn't in cause here.
Here are my system specs:
Toshiba Satellite L75D Windows 7 home premium 64-bit AMD Radeon 6520G
I have just did a clean install of Windows 7 ultimate from XP and I am unable to get my dual monitors to work like they did in XP.
I have a DVI Radeon graphics card plugged into the agp slot, and a Nvidia geforce vga adapter plugged into a pci slot of my dell optiplex 755. When I am in the screen resolution settings the second monitor cannot be detected.
In bios I have 2 options under primary video adapter and they are auto, and onboard card. When set to auto the Nvidia card gets a signal but the Radeon does not. There are no conflicts in the device manager, and all of the drivers are up to date.
When I change the bios option to onboard card the Radeon adapter gets a signal but the other monitor cannot be detected and in device manager there is a yellow exclamation mark next to Standard VGA adapter and a code 10 error that states the device could not be started.
I have powered down, and unplugged every cable, I also tried to use the integrated VGA adapter to the Intel G31/G33/Q33/Q35 Graphics Controller but the computer will not even boot. I get
"System Halted
Attention Unsupported Video Configuration Detected"
I have two monitors, both work fine as standalone but Windows will not detect either as a secondary.
Please help me someone, I am so used to having my helpdesk email open in one monitor and all of my other work in the other monitor.
So I have windows 7 RC1 installed. Generally I never do task/application switching using windows but I recently installed a wacom pen tablet and one of the shortcut keys on the tablet was programmed to switch to various applications... BUT IT DID IT IN A WAY I HAVE NOT FOUND IN Windows 7 YET!
Usually Alt+Tab gives you the generic windows task switcher that shows all the icons of the various apps you have open.
But the pen tablet used an app switcher that did this..
Since I am a musician, I must practice at home and with the modern hardware it became impossible to have total silence in the room, specially a small one. Tried everything an after all, my solution was radical but very effective: My cpu is in my living room with my LCD TV and a keyboard and mouse and, after drilling a wall, I have a LCD monitor, keyboard, mouse, USB hub and a USB CDRom in my studio.
This is perfect because I have total silence to practice and a Home Theater PC in the living room. Under windows XP using the NView software I was able to create a hotkeys combination(ctrl+y) that allowed me to switch monitors without any confirmations, right clicks or dropdown menus. Just click those two keys together and that's it. Now, not even a MultiDisplay Wizard is available.
Sorry for writing so much, but here is the question: How can I switch monitors like I use to do? Is it possible to create a shortcut or hot key or, in a worse case, use the usual way in windows seven but in a way that a confirmation is not required? When I change resolution asking to show only in one of the screens I must run to the other room the confirm the change.
This is the main reason I did not install Vista, but I hope it will be a solution in Windows 7.
I have an Hp running win 7 and as soon as it switches on it powers off . Am suspecting its the CPU as am told. How do i tell for sure if its the CPU? what tests can i carry out?
I have a machine that already has Windows 7 installed.I am buying a SSD to place my OS, and a few games on.How do I uninstall Windows 7 from my original drive (That has OS + Data on it), and install it on the SSD?Should the same disc work? Or would I have to go out and buy a completely new OS just because I have a new hard drive?
Recently, my Quad G5 mac fried (power pc chipset) and I'm building a new Windows 7 system. I'm trying to figure out the best and fastest way to move all the data from my OS X drives (1 500 gb with files/apps, 1 1 tb with files, 1 external 1 tb with files) on to newly formatted Windows 7 drives.
Furthermore, I would like to install Win 7 on the 500 gb.
My initial thought is to boot the new, fresh system from a Linux disk and move all the files within Linux. Something like this: In Linux:
1. Move all the files I want to keep from the 500gb on to the 1tb, then format the 500 gb for Win 7.
2. Move all files from old 1tb to new, clean 1 tb
3. Format old 1 tb
At this point, I should be ready to install Win 7 on the 500gb, and have a properly formatted 1 tb with my old files and a clean, formatted 1 tb.
I have no experience with Linux, but it is my understanding that I can mount any/all disks in Linux in order to do the file management and transfer that I need to do.
A few last thoughts...the Mac was the only only I had owned since my Apple IIc so I'm not a stranger to Windows by any means. That is to say, I'm not an overly ignorant mac user jumping in over his head. However, I have not used Windows 7 at all.
So...any thoughts?
1. Can Linux do what I think it can? 2. Is this a good idea for a workflow? 3. Do I even need Linux to do this?
Box HP-Pavilion OS Win 7 Home Basic Ver. 6.1.7600 32Bit BIOS American Megatrends 5.11 Sound Realtek High Definition Audio Modem HUAWEI Mobile Connect - 3G Modem CPU Pentium(R) Dual-Core CPU E6500 @ 2.93GHz, 2936 Mhz
Original Post Quote: I am trying to find out how to keep my Broadband connection active when I switch users. I have 4 accts. on my computer, one for each family member. Whenever I switch accts, my Broadband connection shuts down. You can start it up again after the switch with no problem. I would prefer, however, to have it stay connected during the switch, as this would just make my life easier. For instance all users connect to the same torrent software, and I have the files for it synced. So, no matter who is logged in, the torrent info is the same. When the connection drops, the torrent software has to reload all the DHT info. I have googled this, to no avail. I assume it is a matter of where the BB Modem Drivers are installed?? Or maybe a Registry tweak. At any rate, I am at a loss as to how to do it, but I am sure it can be done.
I am trying to find out how to keep my Broadband connection active when I switch users. I have 4 accts. on my computer, one for each family member. Whenever I switch accts, my Broadband connection shuts down. You can start it up again after the switch with no problem. I would prefer, however, to have it stay connected during the switch, as this would just make my life easier. FOR INSTANCE all users connect to the same tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software, and I have the files for it synced. So, no matter who is logged in, the tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player info is the same. When the connection drops, the tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software has to reload all the DHT info. I have googled this, to no avail. I assume it is a matter of where the BB Modem Drivers are installed?? Or maybe a Registry tweak. At any rate, I am at a loss as to how to do it, but I am sure it can be done.
Quote: P2P Instructions We do not support P2P file sharing applications and any threads requesting help for such will be closed. This includes Torrents, Kazaa, LimeWire, RapidShare, Pirate Bay, and the like. If you're interested in the topic, you are free to discuss it on our site (and please visit StealingIsIllegal.com), but information on how to use them will not be provided.I thought the above might clarify things. Since the other 3 forums I posted this on had no problem with it, I assume you misunderstood my intentions. (And, yes, the other site have a "no torrent help" rule). I DO NOT want tor help. Nor do I want help with Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software, all of which I also have synced between users. I want BroadBand Modem help. In hindsight, I suppose the I could have used Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software as my "For Instance" examples. Be that as it may, if you re-read my original post, you will notice that I DID NOT ask for tor help, nor am i asking for Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software help now. I am simply looking for an answer to my "staying connected" issue.
My apologies for reposting this but the main forum has been swamped by rugby spam and I think my post (which, uniquely for me on this forum, has not had a response) has disappeared beneath the radar.I have Windows 7 with pre-installed McAfee anti-virus. A few days ago it started warning that my computer was at risk and that I needed to switch on the firewall; I haven't timed it very accurately, but it seems to switch to off again in anything between 30 minutes and 1 3/4 hours.Have tried to find solution on internet but generally couldn't understand the suggestions as they were too technical for me. I have, however, performed a full scan with McAfee, Malwarebytes and Eset. What little that was found and removed has not sorted it. I also failed to find Windows Firewall.A supplementary question if nobody can answer the main one, as a temporary fix, would it make sense to install free ZoneAlarm firewall or will this cause conflicts?
Just found out something really cool and useful. It's like 3D flip but better, as all the active windows become smaller but are facing forward, which makes it easier to choose the needed one. When you point them with your mouse, it shows the software/folder name.I know the alt + tab and win + tab combos, but there has to be some for this one too I guess. Haven't found it even though I tried searching the Interner for hotkey guides.The way I found this option was when I was using my Logitech mouse on my laptop, and started customizing the mouse buttons... I found a button command "switch between software", chose it, and found this option out. How can I do the same thing without my mouse, just using some keyboard combo?Here's a pic of how it looks. Originally Microsoft Word was on top, after pressing the button all the windows were resized and placed next to each other.
I'm having here is that my user accounts have sort of switched themselves. To clarify, my Administrator account had a password, my other user account did not. I woke up to find that the Administrator account no longer had a password, and the user account was now passworded with the administrator's! Now I can assure you that nobody is playing a practical joke, because I am the ONLY person who knows the Administrator password, therefore there is no way anyone else could set that exact password for the user account.
I built my computer the other day, and I had not planned to have an ssd at all, but somehow ended up getting a 64 gigabyte Samsung SSD. It is very fast, which is good for the boot, and i just told myself i would put all programs on the HDD. I did that, Windows installation took up like 25 gigs, and since then I've been watching the disk space slowly drop. without even putting anything on it. So i need to switch the boot drive to the HDD, i dont know how to do this. Can i just copy and paste the entire ssd onto the HDD? or do i need to install windows on the HDD. how exactly can i accomplish this. I actually prefer this solution because this way i can have all my more used (large) programs on the ssd operate very quickly and just have to have a longer boot time. If you are going to try and change my opinion
I use my computer as a sometime HTPC. I have display 1 as my monitor in the computer room and I have display 2 as my 42" LCD in the other room. I ran a 30 ft hdmi cable in there, as well as a connection to the spdif.
Now, to switch from monitor to tv I have to:
Click on the speaker icon.
Select spdif
Select 'set as default.
Right click on the desktop
Resolution (or display settings or whatever)
select display 2
click OK
Run into the next room and click OK in 15 seconds or however long it gives me.
I was wondering, outside of using Ultramon, is there any quicker way to do the above. A shortcut or the possibility of building a macro or something?
I have Windows 7 on a machine at home that the whole family uses. I've noticed that when i leave some applications running (ie...IE, Firefox, Mail, ect...) and someone else wants to login to do something they get the error message "Not Enough Resources to login".
So i will then have to log back in as me and close everything i left open so they can login.
There is no domain obviously since the windows fast switch user is being used.
Has anyone else had this issue or no how to resolve it?
My system is set to shut power to Monitor after 20 mins and to HD 30Mins. This has been working perfectly and suits my position as i frequently have to leave my PC fo 30 mins or so.Add thing last night the monitor was showing the open page (actually Win Live Mail) but the screen was also sjowing a number of rectangle areas a couple of inches wide with pale green and pink lines. The curser was still visible but the mouse an w]keyboard did not work. There was no response at all. I had to close down by pressing the on button for 5 secs. It appeared that the HD had closed down as had the monitor but the image stayed on the screen. Onrebooting I get no response on the Monitor at all. Not even a flicker. I have tried a different monitor but the result is the same. I listened carefully when I pressed the on button and I could hear the HD spin but it stopped very quickly and no other sound emitted aprt fromvery slight fan noise. So I'm stumped as I can't even get into the bios.
I realise there is another SSD thread here but I don't believe it is appropriate to myself.I just bought myself a new SSD which I would like to install 7 onto to use as my boot drive. therefore, i need to clear the Windows install from the HDD that I already have.What is the process for doing this? Do I just pop in the SSD,install windows onto that and then format my HDD afterwards?
I blow away a computer so I'm taking the Hard Drive out and putting it into another computer. From a AMD 3000 to a AMD 3800 and all it does in re-boot. I put in the XP CD and tried to do a repair but it didn't work or I didn't do it right.
I am considering buying a Pci-e SSD drive, likely the new V2 OCZ drives. Will I be required to re-install windows or can I push a copy via Windows back up unto the SSD drive then boot from it by removing my current C: Drive?What problems will I likely face? Is there a better method? I really would like to not re-install Windows.my computer specs are in my profile.
I have only one account on my windows 7, and today when i tried to resume windows, i accidently clicked on "switch user" instead of clicking on the user name. Now when i try to turn on my computer, the whole process of turning on Windows repeats all the time but it doesn't want to go to my account.
