Recently, my Quad G5 mac fried (power pc chipset) and I'm building a new Windows 7 system. I'm trying to figure out the best and fastest way to move all the data from my OS X drives (1 500 gb with files/apps, 1 1 tb with files, 1 external 1 tb with files) on to newly formatted Windows 7 drives.
Furthermore, I would like to install Win 7 on the 500 gb.
My initial thought is to boot the new, fresh system from a Linux disk and move all the files within Linux. Something like this:
In Linux:
1. Move all the files I want to keep from the 500gb on to the 1tb, then format the 500 gb for Win 7.
2. Move all files from old 1tb to new, clean 1 tb
3. Format old 1 tb
At this point, I should be ready to install Win 7 on the 500gb, and have a properly formatted 1 tb with my old files and a clean, formatted 1 tb.
I have no experience with Linux, but it is my understanding that I can mount any/all disks in Linux in order to do the file management and transfer that I need to do.
A few last thoughts...the Mac was the only only I had owned since my Apple IIc so I'm not a stranger to Windows by any means. That is to say, I'm not an overly ignorant mac user jumping in over his head. However, I have not used Windows 7 at all.
So...any thoughts?
1. Can Linux do what I think it can?
2. Is this a good idea for a workflow?
3. Do I even need Linux to do this?
I'm thinking of switching from Vista to Windows 7, is windows 7 running stable enough that I won't be running into many problems(like driver problems?). What drivers can I use for W7?the same ones as for vista? What's the best way to prerpare for a clean windows 7 installation?
get windows 7 to switch audio drivers when you switch to another user account.
For eg.. normal speakers device for my personal account and then have my multichannel device (profire 2626) set as default for my other user account 4 studio work.
Atm, if i change it on one account it changes on the other account which is annoying and i'd just like to set default device for each account so i don't have to do this.
I have purchased and downloaded both 32 bit and 64 bit Windows7 Professional (no CDs or media here only download version)
I sucessfully upgraded from Vista 32 to Windows 7 32
Then I upgraded my hard disk (140Gb 500GB) and RAM (3GB to to 4GB)
Now I would like to go from Windows 7 32bit to 64bit
When I try and run the Windows 7-P-retail-en-us.x64.exe file it upacks the box then stops with this error:"We are unable to create or save files in the folder in which this application was downloaded. Please check the folder properties to make sure that you have security permission on the folder to write flies and that that folder is not read only".
I am the System Admin and I have full rights, and have moved the exe and the setup box files to My Documentsand I have modified the directory properties/attributes but I still get the same error over and over.
I searched the posts and some people stated one needs a clean install others say you can upgrade from any version so I am trying the upgrade here especially since the upgrade from Vista 32 to Windows 7 32 was smooth and did require all the extra work of a reinstall.
I purchased the Win 7 Pro Upgrade 32bit via digitalriver, but I've been doing some reseach and probably should have selected the 64bit version.
- Any ideas how I can get the 64bit version?
- For those who ordered the 32bit back-up disc kit for the extra $15 and have received it, does it come with both 32bit & 64bit?
- I've already installed and activated the 32bit version, but when I go to install the 64bit version, will I need to / is there a way to deactivate my initial 32bit install or will this not matter?
I'm currently running 32-bit Windows 7 (Professional, full version) on my laptop, and want to use this machine to create a bootable USB drive with 64-bit Windows 7 (also Professional, full version). I tried going through the steps that are available on various tutorials online, but I'm always tripped up while attempting to use bootsect to make the drive bootable; basically I get an error saying that I need to be using a 64-bit OS.
I don't have convenient access to a computer with 64-bit Windows Vista/7 (I work at an academic institution where all pubic computers have XP or Linux), so I'm wondering if there's any way to get around this and create a bootable USB for 64-bit Windows 7 via a 32-bit OS.
OK for the first time since the early Win XP x64, I'm thinking about switching to a 64bit windows version.
Got a lot of questions though. I've been using 64bit OSs other the Windows and they all seem to have various problems with drivers and most of all running 32bit programs.
How does it all look on Windows? i.e. i'm using Adobe Master collection cs4 and am wondering if it will work with windows x64... what about antiviruses, Flash etc?
Ps. Is anyone using the x64 on acer aspire 69xx series? If everything running OK?
So I have windows 7 RC1 installed. Generally I never do task/application switching using windows but I recently installed a wacom pen tablet and one of the shortcut keys on the tablet was programmed to switch to various applications... BUT IT DID IT IN A WAY I HAVE NOT FOUND IN Windows 7 YET!
Usually Alt+Tab gives you the generic windows task switcher that shows all the icons of the various apps you have open.
But the pen tablet used an app switcher that did this..
Since I am a musician, I must practice at home and with the modern hardware it became impossible to have total silence in the room, specially a small one. Tried everything an after all, my solution was radical but very effective: My cpu is in my living room with my LCD TV and a keyboard and mouse and, after drilling a wall, I have a LCD monitor, keyboard, mouse, USB hub and a USB CDRom in my studio.
This is perfect because I have total silence to practice and a Home Theater PC in the living room. Under windows XP using the NView software I was able to create a hotkeys combination(ctrl+y) that allowed me to switch monitors without any confirmations, right clicks or dropdown menus. Just click those two keys together and that's it. Now, not even a MultiDisplay Wizard is available.
Sorry for writing so much, but here is the question: How can I switch monitors like I use to do? Is it possible to create a shortcut or hot key or, in a worse case, use the usual way in windows seven but in a way that a confirmation is not required? When I change resolution asking to show only in one of the screens I must run to the other room the confirm the change.
This is the main reason I did not install Vista, but I hope it will be a solution in Windows 7.
I have an Hp running win 7 and as soon as it switches on it powers off . Am suspecting its the CPU as am told. How do i tell for sure if its the CPU? what tests can i carry out?
I have a machine that already has Windows 7 installed.I am buying a SSD to place my OS, and a few games on.How do I uninstall Windows 7 from my original drive (That has OS + Data on it), and install it on the SSD?Should the same disc work? Or would I have to go out and buy a completely new OS just because I have a new hard drive?
Box HP-Pavilion OS Win 7 Home Basic Ver. 6.1.7600 32Bit BIOS American Megatrends 5.11 Sound Realtek High Definition Audio Modem HUAWEI Mobile Connect - 3G Modem CPU Pentium(R) Dual-Core CPU E6500 @ 2.93GHz, 2936 Mhz
Original Post Quote: I am trying to find out how to keep my Broadband connection active when I switch users. I have 4 accts. on my computer, one for each family member. Whenever I switch accts, my Broadband connection shuts down. You can start it up again after the switch with no problem. I would prefer, however, to have it stay connected during the switch, as this would just make my life easier. For instance all users connect to the same torrent software, and I have the files for it synced. So, no matter who is logged in, the torrent info is the same. When the connection drops, the torrent software has to reload all the DHT info. I have googled this, to no avail. I assume it is a matter of where the BB Modem Drivers are installed?? Or maybe a Registry tweak. At any rate, I am at a loss as to how to do it, but I am sure it can be done.
I am trying to find out how to keep my Broadband connection active when I switch users. I have 4 accts. on my computer, one for each family member. Whenever I switch accts, my Broadband connection shuts down. You can start it up again after the switch with no problem. I would prefer, however, to have it stay connected during the switch, as this would just make my life easier. FOR INSTANCE all users connect to the same tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software, and I have the files for it synced. So, no matter who is logged in, the tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player info is the same. When the connection drops, the tor, Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software has to reload all the DHT info. I have googled this, to no avail. I assume it is a matter of where the BB Modem Drivers are installed?? Or maybe a Registry tweak. At any rate, I am at a loss as to how to do it, but I am sure it can be done.
Quote: P2P Instructions We do not support P2P file sharing applications and any threads requesting help for such will be closed. This includes Torrents, Kazaa, LimeWire, RapidShare, Pirate Bay, and the like. If you're interested in the topic, you are free to discuss it on our site (and please visit StealingIsIllegal.com), but information on how to use them will not be provided.I thought the above might clarify things. Since the other 3 forums I posted this on had no problem with it, I assume you misunderstood my intentions. (And, yes, the other site have a "no torrent help" rule). I DO NOT want tor help. Nor do I want help with Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software, all of which I also have synced between users. I want BroadBand Modem help. In hindsight, I suppose the I could have used Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software as my "For Instance" examples. Be that as it may, if you re-read my original post, you will notice that I DID NOT ask for tor help, nor am i asking for Yahoo, Skype, Down-load Manager and, Media Player software help now. I am simply looking for an answer to my "staying connected" issue.
My apologies for reposting this but the main forum has been swamped by rugby spam and I think my post (which, uniquely for me on this forum, has not had a response) has disappeared beneath the radar.I have Windows 7 with pre-installed McAfee anti-virus. A few days ago it started warning that my computer was at risk and that I needed to switch on the firewall; I haven't timed it very accurately, but it seems to switch to off again in anything between 30 minutes and 1 3/4 hours.Have tried to find solution on internet but generally couldn't understand the suggestions as they were too technical for me. I have, however, performed a full scan with McAfee, Malwarebytes and Eset. What little that was found and removed has not sorted it. I also failed to find Windows Firewall.A supplementary question if nobody can answer the main one, as a temporary fix, would it make sense to install free ZoneAlarm firewall or will this cause conflicts?
Just found out something really cool and useful. It's like 3D flip but better, as all the active windows become smaller but are facing forward, which makes it easier to choose the needed one. When you point them with your mouse, it shows the software/folder name.I know the alt + tab and win + tab combos, but there has to be some for this one too I guess. Haven't found it even though I tried searching the Interner for hotkey guides.The way I found this option was when I was using my Logitech mouse on my laptop, and started customizing the mouse buttons... I found a button command "switch between software", chose it, and found this option out. How can I do the same thing without my mouse, just using some keyboard combo?Here's a pic of how it looks. Originally Microsoft Word was on top, after pressing the button all the windows were resized and placed next to each other.
I'm having here is that my user accounts have sort of switched themselves. To clarify, my Administrator account had a password, my other user account did not. I woke up to find that the Administrator account no longer had a password, and the user account was now passworded with the administrator's! Now I can assure you that nobody is playing a practical joke, because I am the ONLY person who knows the Administrator password, therefore there is no way anyone else could set that exact password for the user account.
I built my computer the other day, and I had not planned to have an ssd at all, but somehow ended up getting a 64 gigabyte Samsung SSD. It is very fast, which is good for the boot, and i just told myself i would put all programs on the HDD. I did that, Windows installation took up like 25 gigs, and since then I've been watching the disk space slowly drop. without even putting anything on it. So i need to switch the boot drive to the HDD, i dont know how to do this. Can i just copy and paste the entire ssd onto the HDD? or do i need to install windows on the HDD. how exactly can i accomplish this. I actually prefer this solution because this way i can have all my more used (large) programs on the ssd operate very quickly and just have to have a longer boot time. If you are going to try and change my opinion
I use my computer as a sometime HTPC. I have display 1 as my monitor in the computer room and I have display 2 as my 42" LCD in the other room. I ran a 30 ft hdmi cable in there, as well as a connection to the spdif.
Now, to switch from monitor to tv I have to:
Click on the speaker icon.
Select spdif
Select 'set as default.
Right click on the desktop
Resolution (or display settings or whatever)
select display 2
click OK
Run into the next room and click OK in 15 seconds or however long it gives me.
I was wondering, outside of using Ultramon, is there any quicker way to do the above. A shortcut or the possibility of building a macro or something?
I have Windows 7 on a machine at home that the whole family uses. I've noticed that when i leave some applications running (ie...IE, Firefox, Mail, ect...) and someone else wants to login to do something they get the error message "Not Enough Resources to login".
So i will then have to log back in as me and close everything i left open so they can login.
There is no domain obviously since the windows fast switch user is being used.
Has anyone else had this issue or no how to resolve it?
My system is set to shut power to Monitor after 20 mins and to HD 30Mins. This has been working perfectly and suits my position as i frequently have to leave my PC fo 30 mins or so.Add thing last night the monitor was showing the open page (actually Win Live Mail) but the screen was also sjowing a number of rectangle areas a couple of inches wide with pale green and pink lines. The curser was still visible but the mouse an w]keyboard did not work. There was no response at all. I had to close down by pressing the on button for 5 secs. It appeared that the HD had closed down as had the monitor but the image stayed on the screen. Onrebooting I get no response on the Monitor at all. Not even a flicker. I have tried a different monitor but the result is the same. I listened carefully when I pressed the on button and I could hear the HD spin but it stopped very quickly and no other sound emitted aprt fromvery slight fan noise. So I'm stumped as I can't even get into the bios.
I have two computers. The monitor (Acer) on #1 quit working. I switched monitors. #2 monitor (samsung) didn't work on #1 either. I thought it might be my computer. My brother got his monitor working with it. We thought it might have been my cables. I bought new ones. I tried it (with new cables) with monitor from #2. Didn't work. I put the orignial monitor back on, and it works. Now the monitor from #2 doesn't work on #2. I think it might be a driver issue, but not sure.
As I posted in the monitors forum, I am having problems with a new LG W2053 TQ monitor. Being used with a new HP Pavillion Elite PC. Great picture, but just can't get any of the OSD or configuration screens to appear.
It has those touch sensitive buttons on the front. Have tried everything, but they never appear on the screen no matter how I press them (quickly, tapped, held for several seconds, etc.)
Other than that, the monitor is great.
Have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable for a digital connection, rather than VGA.
Was wondering if perhaps to get these OSD screens to appear, the monitor needs, and uses somehow, the analog VGA cable for this. So, thought I'd give it a try. Now have both cables in place.
But, I'm reasonably sure that the PC is still using the DVI-D digital cable for its output to the PC. Looked in all (I think all) the monitor related screens in Windows 7 but can't find where it is.
a. Is there an option in Windows 7, somewhere, to tell Windows7 which to use, and to switch the output spigots between VGA and DVI-D going to the monitor ?
b. Or, any thoughts as to why the config OSD screens won't appear would also be most appreciated.
I realise there is another SSD thread here but I don't believe it is appropriate to myself.I just bought myself a new SSD which I would like to install 7 onto to use as my boot drive. therefore, i need to clear the Windows install from the HDD that I already have.What is the process for doing this? Do I just pop in the SSD,install windows onto that and then format my HDD afterwards?
I blow away a computer so I'm taking the Hard Drive out and putting it into another computer. From a AMD 3000 to a AMD 3800 and all it does in re-boot. I put in the XP CD and tried to do a repair but it didn't work or I didn't do it right.
I am considering buying a Pci-e SSD drive, likely the new V2 OCZ drives. Will I be required to re-install windows or can I push a copy via Windows back up unto the SSD drive then boot from it by removing my current C: Drive?What problems will I likely face? Is there a better method? I really would like to not re-install Windows.my computer specs are in my profile.
I have only one account on my windows 7, and today when i tried to resume windows, i accidently clicked on "switch user" instead of clicking on the user name. Now when i try to turn on my computer, the whole process of turning on Windows repeats all the time but it doesn't want to go to my account.
I have my Realtek Audio device connected to my home theater receiver through s/pdf and to my monitor through the green jack on the back of the pc.
When I am surfing the forums or what not, I have sound set to analog through my monitor. When I switch to Media Center, My output is moved to the s/pdf by right clicking the little speaker and selecting playback devices, and changng my default device, then starting Media Center.
However, sometimes. I forget to do this and I have to close Media Center and make the switch.
Question is this. Is there a hot key or software appy that can do this for me when I launch Media Center? Perhaps a Batch file, witch I have no experience with.?
I am a Mac owner of two Macs. I use my 1.8GHz Powermac G5 for web development, video editing and graphic design. I use my iBook G4 for surfing internet in coffee shops and for showing my work to clients once it's uploaded to a web server. My iBook G4 is not really usable for any serious work as I use Adobe CS4 Design Premium Suite for all my work and CS4 version demands at least a G5 processor or better.I want to upgrade to Adobe CS5 Design Premium, but I can't because CS5 version doesn't support PPC platform any longer. What should I do? My Powermac G5 is not worth much anymore and the brand new or even refurbished Mac Pro desktop tower is too expensive for me. I am exploring the possibility of switching to PC and having a local PC shop build a decent custom Windows 7 Professional 64-bit based machine for me, for around $800.Is switching to PC a viable option or should I get a used Mac Pro? I want stability and reliability above all and I don't want crashes or viruses. Is this possible with a PC? I really need some objective analysis and opinions.
I am having trouble with my new Fujitsu laptop. I have an onboard GPU (Intel(R) HD Graphics Family) and a non-onboard NVIDIA GeForce GT 525M GPU. I have Windows 7 Home Premium and the latest drivers for my NVIDIA video card. I also obviously have DirectX 11 installed, since I have Win7.Now, the problem is that although Windows detects both GPUs, it uses the Intel one (this was true both before installing the latest NVIDIA driver and before that).I know it's using the Intel one since: 1. If I go to Control Panel->Display->Change display settings->Advanced settings, the Properties window for the Intel GPU pops up; 2. If I go to Intel(R) Graphics and Media Control Panel, under Options and Support->Information Center, it says "Processor Graphics In Use:Intel(R) HD Graphics 3000"; and 3. Graphics quality/performance is way too low for the NVIDIA GPU.I tried disabling the Intel HD thing in Device Manager, but all that happened was that the screen went blank, so I restarted my computer, booted into Safe Mode (the screen wasn't blank there), re-enabled the Intel, and then restarted Windows into normal mode (and obviously I still had the problem with Windows not using the NVIDIA GPU.Also, if I go into NVIDIA Control Panel (click the system tray icon and click "Customize which programs use the GPU"), under "Manage 3D Settings", if I add a game to the list of "programs to customize" (in the Program Settings tab) and then click Apply, the game still behaves as if it was using the Intel on-board GPU (as in, nothing changes in terms of quality and/or performance, regardless of the graphics settings). Also, in the Program Settings tab, under "2. Select the preferred graphics processor for this program", the selected setting is "Use global setting (Auto-select: NVIDIA GPU)" and it doesn't allow me to change that (the drop-down list is greyed out).
